After five years of closed borders, North Korea has reopened to Western tourists, with the first groups entering the country under strict conditions. The trips, led by Young Pioneer Tours and Koryo Tours, offer a rare glimpse into one of the world’s most secretive nations.
However, visitors must adhere to strict guidelines—no insulting leaders, ideology, or making judgments. Practical limitations also include no phone signal, no internet, and no ATMs.
A Controlled Experience
Last week, a group of travelers from the UK, France, Germany, and Australia crossed the border from China into Rason, a remote special economic zone. Unlike previous tours, access to Pyongyang remains restricted, with authorities seemingly testing Rason as a controlled trial run.
Among the group was British YouTuber Mike O’Kennedy, who was taken aback by the tight control over tourists.
“It felt like being on a school trip. You couldn’t leave the hotel without the guides,” said tour leader Ben Weston from Suffolk.
Mike added, “A couple of times, I even had to ask for permission to use the bathroom. I’ve never had to do that anywhere else in the world.”
The itinerary included visits to a beer factory, a school, and a pharmacy, all carefully choreographed to showcase North Korea’s best face. At the school, children performed a dance against a backdrop of ballistic missile animations, a chilling reminder of the country’s militarized culture.
Despite the tight schedule, tourists caught glimpses of everyday life. Mike noted that “everyone was working—no one was just hanging out. That was kind of bleak to see.”
A Peek Behind the Curtain
Joe Smith, a seasoned North Korea traveler and former journalist for NK News, was on his third visit and described the experience as raising more questions than answers.
“The more times you visit, the less you know. Each trip offers a small peek behind the curtain, but you leave with even more questions.”
One unscripted moment came when the group visited a luxury goods market, where jeans, perfumes, and counterfeit designer bags were on sale. Photos were strictly forbidden, reinforcing the suspicion that this consumer bubble is meant to be hidden from the rest of the country.
“It was the only place where people weren’t expecting us,” Joe said. “It felt messy and real—a place where North Koreans actually go. I loved it.”
However, longtime tour leaders noted stricter movement restrictions than on previous trips, with fewer opportunities to interact with locals or visit businesses.
The Lingering Impact of Covid
North Korea remains highly cautious about Covid-19, with luggage disinfected at the border, temperature checks, and many locals still wearing masks.
Greg Vaczi from Koryo Tours was uncertain whether the concern was genuine or an excuse for tighter controls.
“On the surface, they are still concerned, but it’s hard to tell if it’s about health or just another form of restriction.”
Rowan Beard, of Young Pioneer Tours, who has been to North Korea over 100 times, observed that Rason had suffered economically. Many Chinese businesses had shut down, and their workers had left.
Even Joe, familiar with North Korea’s infrastructure, noted the deterioration.
“Buildings were dimly lit, and there was no heating, apart from in our hotel rooms,” he said. A trip to a deserted art gallery drove the point home. “It felt like they opened the doors just for us.”
While the return of Western tourists marks a significant shift, North Korea remains as mysterious and controlled as ever—offering brief, carefully curated glimpses of a country still largely hidden from the outside world.
