The winding Georgian Military Road, stretching 210 kilometers through the Caucasus Mountains, offers more than just breathtaking scenery. This historic route, which connects Tbilisi with Vladikavkaz in Russia, weaves through lush valleys, picturesque villages, and a rich tapestry of Georgian culture and history.
As my car navigates the twisting roads, I am greeted by wildflower-covered mountains, rivers rushing through the valleys, and stunning vistas of remote Georgian Orthodox churches. On one stop, I meet a cheerful vendor who, while handing me a plate of traditional Georgian dumplings by the sparkling Aragvi River, breaks into song. “It’s funny, not many tourists come here, but it’s the most beautiful place on Earth,” says Mirian Takvarelia, my driver from local ride-hailing company GoTrip Georgia. “You need to come once to fall in love with the Caucasus.”
Takvarelia, who has been guiding tourists along this route for over 15 years, knows the area well. “Too long,” he jokes when asked how long he’s been driving along the Military Road, which has seen both periods of prosperity and devastation. Since the end of the Russo-Georgian War in 2008, which left scars along the road, Georgia has slowly recovered, and today it is a thriving tourist destination.
Historically, the Georgian Military Road played a crucial role in military campaigns, serving as a major thoroughfare for the Russian Empire in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was also part of the Great Silk Road, connecting China with the Mediterranean and facilitating trade of silk, spices, and jewels. Ancient writers like Pliny the Elder praised the route for its natural beauty, and even today, it remains a vital passage for both trade and tourism.
Beyond its military significance, the road is lined with historical monuments, including ancient churches and Soviet-era mosaics. Sofia Knoeva, a local tour guide, describes the Military Road as “full of art and architecture” that showcases the country’s rich heritage. “Every tour company in Georgia now includes the Military Road in their basic packages,” Knoeva adds, highlighting the growing interest in the area’s cultural offerings.
Our journey continues as we stop at the historic town of Mtskheta, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Mtskheta was once the capital of Georgia and an important Silk Road trading hub. Home to three significant churches, including the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, it is here that Christianity took root in Georgia. Visitors can explore the cathedral’s intricate frescoes, stone carvings, and even ancient wine-making equipment, a nod to Georgia’s millennia-old wine-making traditions.
As we venture deeper into the mountains, Takvarelia points out the forgotten Soviet mosaics that line the road, particularly the vibrant, if decaying, ceramic panels adorning bus stop walls. “The Military Road is lined with these mosaics, but no one stops to admire them anymore,” he reflects.
For those seeking an unforgettable journey, the Georgian Military Road offers not just stunning landscapes, but a rich blend of history, culture, and unexpected beauty.
